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Domaine Rose-Dieu Plan de Dieu, 2014
Domaine Rose-Dieu 2014 “Plan De Dieu”, 14.5% ABV, Approx $16/bottle in 2016. Most wine lovers have favorites when it comes to Côtes du Rhône village-level wines. This one I found locally for about $16, but I’ve seen as low as $12 online! Domaine Rose Dieu’s Plan De Dieu, a full-bodied, spicy blend of Grenache, Syrah, […]
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Troon Takes Orange Wine to the Next Level
Troon Vineyards 2019 Kubli Bench Amber, Estate Orange Wine; Applegate Valley AVA, OR. 13.3% ABV, MSRP $30/bottle. Kubli Bench Amber is an orange wine from Troon Vineyards, a Demeter BioDynamic, Certified Organic winery in the Applegate Valley AVA, located in the southwestern region of Oregon. The Kubli Bench Amber is a blend of 74% […]
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Smith Madrone: Blurring the Lines Between Old and New World Wines.
I recently had the opportunity to join in a live tasting of four wines I’d highly enjoyed a year ago. The winery, Smith-Madrone, is one of the best under-the-radar labels you can find. I’m still surprised their prices have not sky-rocketed, but their wines are selling out faster every year and their value is among […]
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Wines of the Dão
When I think about wines with tremendous value, my first reaction is the Iberian Peninsula. But move over Spain, the wines of Portugal are coming through! OK, so is this really new? Maybe you’ve tried some Portuguese wines before. But this IS new, unless you have truly paid serious attention to the wines of the Dão […]
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Old World Flavors From a New World Vineyard: Lucas & Lewellen Toccata Classico 2015
Lucas & Lewellen Toccata 2015 Classico Red Wine, Santa Barbara County, California, USA. 14.7%ABV, SRP is $29/bottle. Sample Provided. Winemaker Megan McGrath Gates blended 50% sangiovese, 30% cabernet sauvignon, and 5% each of merlot, cab franc, petite verdot, and freisa , from Santa Barbara County’s Los Alamos and Valley View vineyards. Color is a medium […]
Recent Reviews
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Troon Takes Orange Wine to the Next Level
Troon Vineyards 2019 Kubli Bench Amber, Estate Orange Wine; Applegate Valley AVA, OR. 13.3% ABV, MSRP $30/bottle. Kubli Bench Amber is an orange wine from Troon Vineyards, a Demeter BioDynamic, Certified Organic winery in the Applegate Valley AVA, located in the southwestern region of Oregon. The Kubli Bench Amber is a blend of 74% […]
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Smith Madrone: Blurring the Lines Between Old and New World Wines.
I recently had the opportunity to join in a live tasting of four wines I’d highly enjoyed a year ago. The winery, Smith-Madrone, is one of the best under-the-radar labels you can find. I’m still surprised their prices have not sky-rocketed, but their wines are selling out faster every year and their value is among […]
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Wines of the Dão
When I think about wines with tremendous value, my first reaction is the Iberian Peninsula. But move over Spain, the wines of Portugal are coming through! OK, so is this really new? Maybe you’ve tried some Portuguese wines before. But this IS new, unless you have truly paid serious attention to the wines of the Dão […]
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2016 Aridus Graciano and Syrah from Cochise County, Arizona
Aridus 2016 Graciano, Cochise County, Arizona. %14.4 ABV, SRP $37/bottle. By Jim vanBergen, JvBUnCorked. All Rights Reserved. Copyright by Jim van Bergen, JvB UnCorked 2019. May Not Be Duplicated Without Permission. Color is an opaque purple center with dark ruby edging. The nose shows black and blue fruit compote, eucalyptus, and a subtle herbal blend. […]
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Pazo Torrado Albariño Rias Baixas, Galicia
Pazo Torrado Albariño 2017, D.O. Rías Baixas, Galicia, Spain. 12.5%ABV, SRP around $11/bottle. All Rights Reserved. Copyright by Jim van Bergen, JvB UnCorked 2019. May Not Be Duplicated Without Permission. By Jim van Bergen, JvBUnCorked Color is a translucent medium straw. The nose offers a luxurious floral aroma, hyacinth, orchid and pineapple. […]
Recent Commentary:
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Evening Land 2011 Bourgogne Rouge
My love of pinot noir began with Burgundy and expanded rapidly around the world. More than ten years ago, I was attending an Oregon regional tasting and had been severely impressed with an Evening Land wine I tasted from the Eola-Amity Hills AVA of the Willamette Valley. When I found out they were also making […]
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Enjoying Aged White Wine & Pierre Morey 2011 Bourgogne Aligoté
Let me start with a wine review: Pierre Morey, 2011 Bourgogne Aligoté, Meursalt, Cote D’Or, France. 12% ABV; Case purchase in 2013 for $17/bottle. At nine years of age, the color has only slightly deepened to a maturing pale gold. Aroma is light and mellow, reductive of dried wildflowers and lemon zest. On the palate, the […]
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New Year’s Bottles and my “Dry” January
Several close friends decided to have a dry January. Everyone understands the idea, you’re dieting off the weight that got put on over the holidays, and your liver could use a break. While I had some time off from work, I saw my doctor and had my blood work done- so I know my liver […]
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Flattery in Wine?
When people make fun of your passions, or when personal and professional interests crossover, it must be a sign your blog is doing something right. Right? A friend of mine texted me today with this gem: It was funny, in a laughing-at-Sideways kind of moment. But now I’m suddenly feeling like a glass of merlot! […]
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What You Learn When Pouring for Others
I love pouring wine for others. I recently donated several cases of wine to a fundraiser, and in addition to the wine, I poured glasses to the attendees. They walked up to a wine bar, I asked them what they liked to drink, and then poured them a taste. Sometimes I poured them tastes from […]
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Wine Buyer’s Remorse
19 JunWhen you shop for, find, buy and finally open that new wine for the first time, you are expecting and emotionally prepared for a distinct reaction. You go in perhaps hopeful, excited, perhaps even a little giddy. What do you do when your first taste is disappointing? Obviously if you buy a wine that’s corked (aka tained, spoiled, showing the presence of trichloroanisonle or TCA) you immediately regret it.
But sometimes wine is perfectly not corked, it’s just..mediocre. What can you say when the wine is ‘meh’? Several times in my life I’ve regretted making a purchase. We’re thrilled when a cheap bottle tastes like something much more expensive. But what about when you drop hard earned coin on a supposedly great bottle that’s only OK? I don’t know about you, but it makes me sad!
I recently opened a bottle that was an award-winner, highly rated. My experience was a delicate, lightly floral nose, and boring palate- watery, some red fruit, acid and tannin but NOT a flavor I wanted to repeat. It is corked or just mediocre?
I asked myself these questions:
1) Proper tasting approach: Did I taste this properly? (Is my palate clean? Am I using neutral judgement?) Maybe it requires more air? A: My palate wasn’t clean, I’d been noshing and drinking an ounce of a wonderfully structured, classic red earlier. I decide to give it air, cleanse my palate and taste it at least two more tastes.
2) Storage: Is this a wine designed to be caved for age and be enjoyed in ten years, or is it meant to be drunk young? Am I drinking this too early, or too late in the life of the vintage? A: It’s an ’07 that should be approachable now.
4) Complementary tasting? Did I pair this with something inappropriate? A: Yes, I had strong flavors on my palate earlier. My gut is the wine is demonstrating TCA or the balance is off- I don’t expect an award-winning wine to taste like this, but I have to try again with a clean palate and a neutral choice (like a water cracker) to see if the reaction is more my fault.
5) Possible Audience: If its not MY cup of tea, who WOULD like this? A: while the wine might be tainted, it could also be that this wine is just not something that I like. It might pair with very different approach, but I decide to pass on this and re-consider it later.
6) Sales & Marketing: What did they do right in making and marketing this wine? A: The label is classic, attractive Chateau type. Award was clearly displayed on each bottle. Wine was displayed prominently with other solid bordeaux. Good price. The seller knew I’d buy this wine, it’s at a high value price point if I like it.
So after going through this mental process while swirling the wine in the glass to aerate it further, eating a water cracker and drinking a half glass of water, my palate feels cleaner and more open. I smell and taste a second time. Mediocre. Doesn’t taste vinegary, but doesn’t taste like something I want to drink. I deem my palate past neutrality and decide to let the bottle sit and taste again tomorrow. When approaching cleanly, I should know quickly if its tainted or just a mediocre bottle.
Sometimes it’s obvious when you find a corked bottle. Sometimes, like last night, you find a minor mystery. More often than a corked bottle is when I’ve found something I’m excited about – maybe a rare find or a well-rated wine – and I’m clearly hoping for an astounding experience. But my initial response is “so so.”
So-so, my friends, is a total and complete disappointment.
When I taste a so-so wine, I taste it again, to double check myself. Then I let it rest a bit and see if a little more exposure to air will improve it.
Then I’ll try it with a cracker, a gentle cheese, a robust cheese, and maybe some chocolate. If the wine may improve with food, these are some of the best choices. It’s also easier to keep these foods around your home, instead of fois gras, mushroom terrine, cornichon/raclette cheese/baguette, and chocolate truffles (each of which might pair wonderfully with wines high in acidity, in tannin, in sugar, etc.) Sometimes you’ll find the wine has opened up, or pairs and compliments one of these foods amazingly well.
But other times, you’ll realize that regardless of price or rating, the wine just isn’t what you like.
It’s important to realize at this point, that it’s OK. It’s actually good, because you’re learning what you like and don’t like in wine.
Don’t forget, every season is a new bunch of wines, every season is a new season to live, learn, try and taste.
So…have you experienced my misery? Bringing home a bottle of something you’re really excited about, just to taste it and think … “what’s the fuss about?” I’d love to hear about it!
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Tags: Commentary, Wine, Wine Commentary