Francophiled, or Drink What You Like

5 Oct

I recently attended a blind A/B tasting. That means we (the tasting panel) were given four pairs of wines poured from concealed bottles, were given no information on them, and we had to compare each pair of wines against one another. The common thread was that one set was presented by a famed importer of classic old world French wines from the Loire Valley, while the other set was provided by a small, youthful winery from Santa Barbara, California. What made this most interesting was that it was a pair of brothers, born five years apart, who both work in the wine industry, pitting their wines against one another. It was a fascinating evening and enlightening tasting.

Unfortunately,  this tasting came after a month of too little wine and too much work. Stupidly, I arrived fresh from taking my daughter horseback riding- parched and on an empty stomach- which somewhat threw me off my “A” game.

I took my wine notes, choosing many of the regions and grapes correctly. But I did something I’ve never done before. Our hosts asked us to tell them which wine we’d rather drink. So after tasting both wines in a pair, I quickly made a tiny heart-shaped notation indicating which of the wines I immediately preferred, knowing nothing more than my initial nose & sip. Normally I’m in critical mode, thinking about everything BUT which wine I might prefer to drink. My energy is spent deciding what the region, grape, style, and vintage might be, before possible food pairings. This time, I spent less concern on those criteria and just let my mouth decide.

So, what did I learn, you ask?

I learned that even an old dog can learn new tricks. As an outspoken Francophile (for the newbies, in the wine world that means I prefer old-world French wines) this tasting forced me to remove my size twelve boot from my mouth (Zut alors!) and replace it with a flip- flop, Duuuude!

In not one, but in EVERY single instance, I had chosen the Santa Barbara wine. The Loire Sauvignon Blanc had more grapefruit upfront while the Santa Barbara felt muted and ergo drank with greater balance. With the chenin blanc, it was the slight petrol on the French wine’s nose that made me prefer the other wine. With the pinot noir, it was that the French wine was actually a red sancerre. With the Cabernet Franc, it was the slightly deeper color and depth of palate that made me think it was aged longer in the barrel (it was) and was tastier on its own, while the French Chinon was a tiny bit sharper (more acidic) on the palate and ultimately would pair better with food, but fooled me into thinking it was Californian.


All night long, I kept thinking there was a wine switcheroo– that the Californian wine was actually the French and so forth. I was slightly amused, and yet irritated at myself for getting it wrong, not coming to the tasting with my “A” game, drinking the wine more than just tasting it, and enjoying the process of tasting and just having fun, instead of taking it so seriously- which is, after all, really the best way to do a tasting, right?

So instead of coming away with a set of killer tasting notes, I had a blast. I really enjoyed eight wines, and based upon minutiae, I selected four that I’d rather drink – and in every single case thought I’d chosen the old world French wines of my youth. Instead, I found myself having selected the Santa Barbara competitor time and time again. That, my friends, was the switcheroo.


Towards the end of the evening, I found myself chatting with a lovely couple across the tasting table. The wife admitted to me apologetically, “I know nothing about wine,” and I kept reminding her that the historic wine rules are no longer valid or in force. “As long as you know what you like, that’s what matters,” I preached. For this evening, I can do nothing but take my own advice. As an avowed Francophile, I am tipping my hat. For at least this one night, I am now California Dreamin’.


Knowing what you like means I have the best of both worlds. I can drink what I like from the new world, and I can also buy, hold, and drink what I hold so dear: those old world French wines.

My thanks to James Parisi and Xavier Wines for hosting this event. And both my thanks and respect to brothers Lyle Railsback from Kermit Lynch and Eric Railsback from Lieu Dit Winery for the astounding evening of great wines that I seriously enjoyed.

Know this, gents: I’m a true fan of all of your work and will continue to enjoy all your brands, drinking both what I like at the moment, and what I have loved my whole life.

À votre santé!

7 Responses to “Francophiled, or Drink What You Like”

  1. thewineraconteur October 6, 2015 at 7:31 pm #

    Jim, some how I feel that I was reading an English translation of some of the dialogue from Bottle Shock and I understand how you feel, as I was once basically a Francophile myself, but times have changed. The most important thing is to enjoy the wines and have fun with friends, and make new friends.


    • jimvanbergen October 6, 2015 at 9:01 pm #

      Thank you very much , I appreciate the association. I had my own Bottle Shock experience in Santa Barbara last year at WBC14. I expect I will always be a Francophile, but will continue to champion not only France’s wines but all the amazing wines being made in regions over the world!
      You are correct as always, the importance of enjoying simple things- a well made wine, sharing these gifts in the company of old and new friends- these are what changes life into truly living. Santé!

      Liked by 1 person

  2. the buddha in your glass October 6, 2015 at 2:00 pm #

    So interesting, very Eric Asimov in essence, enjoy what you drink!


    • jimvanbergen October 6, 2015 at 6:15 pm #

      Glad you enjoyed, and thank you for the compliment!


  3. talkavino October 5, 2015 at 2:10 pm #

    I don’t think you should feel bad at all – yes, the first reaction to the wine is often misleading (many times I would think “ahh, too sweet” while drinking a young red, which becomes almost a tight acidic monster after 30 minutes in the glass), but in the end of the day, the wine is not made to be analyzed, it is made to be enjoyed – and if you did, your mission is accomplished. 🙂


    • jimvanbergen October 6, 2015 at 10:12 am #

      Very kind of you, and I appreciate the support. It’s tough though, if I’m holding the tasting, I only want my guests to enjoy themselves and learn a little. When I’m attending a tasting, I feel a great deal of responsibility.
      Either way, this time I learned something, and I’m buying some of these to do in-depth reviews. 🙂 So I guess we all win? Cheers!


      • talkavino October 6, 2015 at 10:37 am #

        Agreed – however I believe that your learning experience was very valuable as it was – both for you and your readers, so it is a win-win 🙂


Comments are closed.

%d bloggers like this: