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Journey to the Jura with Puffeney 2.0

14 Mar

Frédéric Puffeney 2015 Arbois Trousseau. 13.5% ABV,  between $25-28/bottle, street price.

 

Trousseau. Most Americans don’t know what it is. It’s a grape, one also called by many names in Europe over the last several hundred years, sometimes names like Bastardo, Gros Cabernet, Semillon Rouge, or other nicknames.  What you should know is that it accounts for about 5% of the wines grown in the Jura AVA of France, and it can provide some delicious wines.

Color is translucent maroon. The nose offers a sweet red plum, sour cherry, and green herbs with a secondary note of black soil and wet moss. On the palate, subtle fruit pair with a strong acid/tannin combination make this a powerful food wine. Bright and brisk cherry and raspberry dominate the fruit profile with sage and mixed peppercorn with hints of  limestone, granite,  tree bark and forest floor. Beautifully dark and brooding, this Trousseau is pinot noir’s cousin: instead of a mature  and brilliant youth, trousseau presents like an angry young man at first, then shocks you with tremendous pairing power and a likeability that warms you up slowly but steadily. While the traditionalists will tel you to pair this with morbier or comet cheese, I will tell you that roast chicken, delicate grilled meats, or ratatouille are perfect matches for this wine.

Lastly, the pedigree. Jaques Puffeney stopped making wine years ago, but his nephew Frédéric has taken the helm in supporting the wines and terroir of the Jura. Well, fear not- he’s doing something right. His wines are fascinating, compelling, and delightful. You may have to look for them, but when you find them, his wines will win you over.

 

à votre santé

 

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